It is not cold in Zagreb today, but it is far from balmy. The streets and squares in the center are jammed in the early afternoon, but only in places the sun can reach. My beloved and I were walking past a sun-lit café table a moment ago when the people sitting there started to get up. We stopped in our tracks, turned around, and approached the table as slowly as we could so as not to get in their way. But two women in their late forties or early fifties suddenly rushed in. “No, no,” one of them exclaimed indignantly, “we’ve been waiting for this table!” We were taken aback. “You’re more aggressive,” I chuckled as I started beating a retreat, “so you should win!” “Thank you,” the woman replied with a grin and plopped herself into the nearest chair. Of course, the charge of aggressiveness is a complement in Croatia.