VARAŽDIN, SUBOTICA (January 11, 2014)
Among the fifty-two places to visit this year, The New York Times today lists Varaždin in Croatia and Subotica in Serbia. Newspapers in the two countries proudly report the felicitous choice of the renowned newspaper, but they make sure not to mention the town in the neighboring country. God forbid. The two countries have nothing in common, anyhow. Except the Austro-Hungarian heritage that brings Varaždin and Subotica under the same roof in one fell swoop. Respectively, they are bordering on Austria and Hungary, too. Indeed, neither town would be worth visiting otherwise. It is the former empire that shaped them both. Varasd (from város, “town”) and Szabadka (from szabad, “free”) are Hungarian names of the towns. And neither Croatia nor Serbia have yet managed to devastate the cultural heritage that came their way by an historical fluke. But both countries are doing their best toward that goal ever since the breakup of the Austro-Hungarian empire, let alone the breakup of Yugoslavia. So, hurry up. Chances are the two border towns will not be worth visiting in a decade or two.