As I am wiping my ass, my index fingers sinks into my asshole through the toilet paper. Yuck. I immediately come up with a German name for the Croatian toilet paper: Sanft aber nicht Sicher. Alas, the German Sanft und Sicher toilet paper, which my beloved and I regularly use in Zagreb, is not yet available in Motovun (“Sanft und Sicher,” January 8, 2011). Having wiped myself, I immediately rush to the bathroom sink. That index finger needs a quick wash.