I talked with Bruno Milanović only once, and that was some months ago, but I still cherish one of his many stories. When Germans came to Motovun after the capitulation of Italy in 1943, someone rushed to tell one of his grandmothers about it. “Bah,” she waved her hand without even looking up from whatever she was doing, “they, too, will leave sooner or later!” She used to live in Brkač—a village southwest of the town, where Bruno still lives. An ex-mayor of Motovun, endowed with an enviable belly, he just chuckled at his grandmother’s wisdom. Indeed, Brkač has remained Croatian for a long, long time now.