When I arrived in Belgrade more than a week ago, I saw that the old drinking hole down my street, called “Kosovo” after the name of the street, was being refurbished. Yesterday was the opening night, but I did not stop to check the place out. The huge crowd spilling onto the street bode well. This morning I decided to try it out. When I walked in, I realized that all the youngsters working there were somewhat hesitant about my presence. “Are you open?” I asked one of them. He turned to another waiter: “Are we open?” As it turned out, they were kind of open, and I ordered a double espresso. “How do you call this place?” I asked when the coffee arrived. “Ice Bar!” As chance would have it, I was their very first customer. Old Kosovo is no more. For the time being, the name of the street is not in question.