As I am drinking my morning coffee at the hotel café, three Croatian businessmen join me at a neighboring table. I cannot place their accent, but they look rather crude in spite of their suits and ties. “Does anyone know,” asks one of them, “how many people live here?” Another raises his eyebrows and makes a wild guess: “Three-thousand!” The third laughs out loud. “C’mon,” he spouts, “between thirteen and fifteen!” He is much closer to the truth, too. As I must strike them as a hotel guest, and a foreign one on account of my clothing, they do not check their numbers with me.