I love the upper town in Zagreb, which I walk through as often as I can. This is what I did this afternoon among afternoons, too. Medieval through and through, it betrays the will of not a single building owner. Most important, it betrays the will of not a single architect or urban planner. And it is the latter two who annoy me the most wherever I go, not only the Croatian capital. As their signatures have mushroomed in size, they have brandished them with ever-greater relish. One cannot escape them any longer, for they often reach the size of whole towns. Nay, entire cities. Come to think of it, it is my first two professions that are to blame for most horrors in our built environment today. Would that the medieval principles of architectural design and urban planning were brought back to our rescue. The signatures of vainglorious architects and urban planners would swiftly disappear never to return. And the upper town in Zagreb would spread far and wide as if by magic.