I was at Marko’s this afternoon when he came to his restaurant and wine shop to take over from Damir Gregorović, known to all as Greg. We were at the bar when Greg left. And so we started talking. Marko is twenty-four right now. I know him since he was fifteen. The conversation turned toward wine, and this is how I learned that he was close to completing his studies in enology in Poreč. “A couple of additional exams,” he grinned, “and I am done!” I asked him how he felt about the program he was in. “Quite good,” he nodded seriously, “with the possible exception of wine tasting.” But we soon turned to the core of his winemaking skills. “My father knows a great deal about it,” he said, “and so does my grandfather.” Most important, they know about winemaking in and around Bataji, where they have been living for many generations. Between them, they know the grape, the land, and the climate inside and out. And this is something they cannot possibly teach in Poreč or anywhere else. “The quality of wine cannot but go up and down with the season,” he said, “but I am doing my best to keep the variation as small as possible.” I have always liked Marko, but this afternoon’s conversation was still a surprise. “Keep it steady,” I said as I was leaving, “and everything will be alright.” Few men his age could hear me, but I think he did. His family is one of his greatest assets.