When it comes to lolling about, the denizens of Zagreb never cease to amaze me. Outdoor cafés in the center, which is pretty large by comparison with the rest of the city, are always busy. And they are nothing if not packed today. The weather is balmy, and lolling about is the right thing to do. The only mystery of the Croatian capital is how it functions at all. The same also holds for the entire country. To the best of anyone’s reckoning, unemployment is around twenty percent. It must be twice or thrice that percentage for the young people, who are everywhere around me. Actually, there are many old people around me, as well. The number of retired people is about the same as is the number of those employed. As one of the leading Croatian newspapers reports today, this ratio of the retired to the employed cannot be found anywhere else in Europe. So, what is the secret of this country and its miraculous capital? How do these people not only survive, but also manage to have all the fun that survival entails? I am stumped, of course. I am only an economist, after all. And this vaunted social science is all about work rather than leisure. Sorry, lolling about.

Addendum (February 21, 2024)

Unusually as of late, I spent last week in Zagreb. On my many chores, I would pass through the center of the city at all times of day. As it was sunny and quite warm most of the time, I could not but wonder at the number of those who seemed to be lolling about in outdoor cafés all the while. There were thousands of them during the working hours. Of all ages and of both genders, they included those who worked in the center, as well. This was obvious from neckties and high heels everywhere in sight. But most of those who were of working age were chatting, grinning, and guffawing instead. Twelve years after this piece was written, though, I do understand how this works in Croatia, a Balkan country to boot. Almost everyone lolling about in the center is employed by the state. After all, the state is one of the greatest employers in this country. On top of ministries and agencies of all descriptions, this includes public companies galore. Although their employees spend a great part of their time having fun, they do accomplish almost everything that is demanded of them by lolling about. How is that possible? Easy-peasy. They meet outdoors with those they need to meet on business, as it were, and they agree over coffee or beer what needs to be done next. But they spend no more than a minute or two on such trifling subjects. “Hey,” one leans toward another and winks before getting up to leave, “remember that silly case?” The other winks in turn and adds: “Don’t forget my nephew, either!” And that is all they need to say to each other. In a day or two, everything will be in order, no doubt. Croatia is not a country that economists could ever understand. It all boils down to sociology, psychology, and biology. And biology is the absolute winner!