Motovun is kind of empty today. Marko and I went to Novigrad and Umag before lunch in a fine restaurant close to the Slovene border. Afterwards, we went to Grožnjan. When we returned to Motovun, I reported to everyone that Novigrad, Umag, and Grožnjan were also empty. “Hardly a soul,” I waved my arms over and over again. Everyone nodded in agreement. “The tourist season is over,” ran the verdict of all. Rain is expected at the end of this week, and that will surely be the end of it. The next season will start in earnest in about five months. Easter, that is. In the meanwhile, Istria will be as good as dead.