The first thing I gather upon arrival from Motovun, where there are no cockroaches, is that my beloved’s apartment in Zagreb has been infested with cockroaches.

Addendum (June 1, 2012)

My beloved called some company that deals with pests. While she was at work, a fellow came to the apartment to spray some sort of poison all over the place. “Don’t worry,” he told me, “we use the same stuff in hospitals and daycare centers.” But then he asked me what sort of cockroach we had seen. “A big one,” I told him. “My beloved didn’t even recognize it as a cockroach at first.” He was pleased. “Good news,” he explained. “The small ones are much harder to exterminate.” And then he added that the pests might have come through the sewer. “They are amazing!” I agreed at once. “Half a billion years makes you rather sturdy!” Anyhow, we appear to be in good hands. “Call me if you see another one,” the fellow said as he was leaving. I hope we will not, though. But my fascination with this insect has reached a new height. God bless the rugged cockroach!