THE RELENTLESS ADVANCE OF CROATIAN GRAY (August 5, 2011)

During the summer months, the hotel terrace is my favorite place in Motovun. The chestnut trees are its main attraction, but the buildings framing it add to its charm. The buildings themselves are rather plain, but their colors make up for the drab architecture. The hotel itself is terracotta. The post office across the terrace is yellow. Although one of the municipal buildings next the post office has always been gray, the other used to be pink. No longer. After the recent repair of its façade, which was despoiled by a long-leaking toilet, it was painted gray, as well. Someone in the municipal office must have had strong feelings about that ghastly pink. And the hotel terrace has thus lost a bit of its former appeal. Slowly but surely, Croatian gray is replacing the plethora of Venetian colors across the hilltown. After all, Motovun has become a part of the Croatian cultural heritage at the end of World War II. Whence the relentless advance of Croatian gray, no doubt.