Christmas is just behind the corner, and Zagreb is cluttered with festive decorations. Main streets are lined up with twinkling lights. Many a building is lavishly decked out for the occasion. And garish shop windows are bursting with yet unclaimed gifts. Wherever one looks, there are many more people and cars than usual. Christmas songs can be heard here and there amid the nervous honking. To my surprise, I find myself missing the Motovun hush. Although festive decorations can be seen there as well, they are few and far between. Most of them are even lovable in their clumsiness. The saccharine holiday music rarely spoils the almost tangible silence. Yes, Motovun beats Zagreb just before Christmas, and I am almost delighted to report it. Actually, admit it. Come to think of it, I must be preparing myself for a bit more than a week in the sleepy hilltown at the end of the year.