Motovun has not changed much in the last two months, but several changes are visible as soon as one reaches the lower square. The first is that Miroslav Milosavljević’s pizzeria is closed while Klaudio Ivašić’s is still open. Of course, this was only a question of time, as the lower square cannot support two competing pizzerias (“What Goes Next?” December 16, 2004). According to the grapevine, Marko Fakin from Bataji is taking over the shop from Ernest Benčić, the landlord. He will offer much more than pizzas, and so he might be able to survive next door to the victorious pizzeria, which suddenly appeared only this year. The second thing that is visible on the lower square is that Ernest Benčić’s other property, the old butcher’s shop, is painted red rather than Croatian gray, as required by the appropriate authorities (“Croatian Gray Forever!” May 6, 2011). Originally, the shop was terracotta in color. I look forward to learning more about the choice of color on the landlord’s part, but I assume it is defiance pure and simple. The red is a bit too garish for my taste, but it will be fine as the color fades over a few years. The third visible change is a whole bunch of parked cars. During the tourist season, parking was banned from the lower square, which was taken over by tables and chairs. They are gone now. The cars are back, and in earnest. They show beyond any reasonable doubt that the hilltown is alive and well. Thriving, as it were. Anyway, who says nothing ever happens in Motovun? The lower square is changing fast!