There is a plump Gypsy fortune-teller in her mid-fifties who keeps circling around outdoor cafés in central Zagreb. Her first line is perfectly predictable: “Shall I tell you your fortune?” As soon as you let her know that you are not interested, she comes up with the second line, which is equally predictable: “You’ve seen all of Europe.” It takes a firm word or gesture to shake her off. Today I met her in the middle of an almost empty street not far from her beat. When I greeted her with a smile, she took her time to return it. We were already a few paces away when she turned around: “You look like a youngster!” I turned around with a happy-go-lucky smile and came up with a line of her own: “I’ve seen all of Europe!” Unperturbed, she kept talking at an ever-louder voice, but I gave her only a friendly wave goodbye and kept walking. She is forever in search of a fortune-telling opportunity.