The best time to visit Dolac, Zagreb’s main open market, is Saturday just before noon. The best stuff is on offer. And the place is teeming with people. Having just returned from the market, my mind is still reeling from the experience. It is amazing to navigate through narrow alleys between stalls piled with fruits and vegetables. In spite of the crowds, everything is running smoothly. People with huge bags and carts navigate past each other without a glitch. Their faces are amazing to behold. Young and old, they are about fruits and vegetable only. Where are the best and cheapest onions? How about plums? But the stalls themselves are mesmerizing. The colors, the shapes, the smells. This time around, I was astonished by a wide variety of pumpkins large and small, some of which I have seen never before. Bent and gnarled, their orange and green hues were just stunning. And so it will take me a while to calm down after my last visit to Dolac. The cannon from the upper town has just announced noon. Saturday bliss.