THE SOUND OF CHILDHOOD (October 9, 2009)

On my last visit to the Croatian capital I was delighted by the number of Chinese, Korean, and Japanese tourists in the center of the city (“That One Thing,” September 12, 2009). Many Japanese tourists are still around on this visit, and it is always a joy to bump into them, but I have another delightful thing to report this time around: a man and a woman in their thirties are regularly playing pipes at one busy corner of the city’s main square. Each time I walk by, one of them is there. Their pipes are of different design. Their tunes are rather different, too, but both of them strike me as very good players. It is likely that they come from different parts of the country. Anyhow, this morning the woman was there when I walked through the square, and I slowed down by her corner to enjoy the sound of the pipes a bit longer. I walked past her and continued down one of the main streets in Zagreb. And then I walked past a burly man in his fifties walking in the opposite direction. I was a few paces away from him when he heard the pipes and spotted the woman. The grin that spread on his face was a real delight to spy out of the corner of my eye. The sound of childhood, I was quite sure.