TOWARD A SHORT HISTORY OF MOTOVUN, WITH FEELING (November 19, 2008)
Centuries ago, Motovun was Venetian and its countryside was Croatian. Under Austro-Hungarian rule, Motovun was Italian and its countryside was still Croatian. Under Italian rule, Motovun became a fascist nest very much feared by the Croatian countryside. Under Yugoslav rule, the vacuum left by the Italians and their Croatian collaborators was first filled by Croatians from the town’s countryside and farther afield, but then the town was taken over by Yugoslav potentates, mainly from Belgrade. Under Croatian rule, a growing number of newcomers, mainly foreigners with some money but without any political clout in Croatia, have gradually filled the vacuum left by the Yugoslav potentates. And then, for the first time in nearly a millennium, the Croatians from the countryside have seen their chance. Knowing full well that the foreigners will eventually rule the town once again, they have seized the moment. Now they want to sell their land to developers who will build houses with a splendid view of the ancient town. If everything goes as the Croatians from the countryside now hope, the political vacuum in Motovun will last long enough for the countryside to extract some advantage from the Venetian town that still towers in their midst. A few years before Croatia’s entry into the European Union, however, the time at their disposal is awfully short. What is worse, their hopes will most likely be dashed by the greatest economic crisis in the world for nearly a century. Alas, history has never been well inclined toward the poor Croatians from Motovun’s countryside!