THE FORLORN HILLTOWN (December 14, 2008)

Have I been longing for Motovun? Sadly, not a bit. Have I been thinking about it, either? Well, it has taken me an entire week to remember it at all. As well as to realize that something is indeed different this time around. Although Zagreb will never become close to my heart, for it is petit bourgeois to the core, now I am much more comfortable in it than on so many visits in recent years. Which means that my feelings about Motovun have shifted, and the shift cannot but be related to the vile politics of the place. It is enough for me to remember the faces of the mayor and his stooges to wish to stay in Zagreb not for another week or two, but indefinitely. The only question that remains is whether or not my feelings about the forlorn hilltown will ever change again.