Jozo Brandić remembers one of his grandfathers very fondly. “He was quite old when I was a teenager,” he smiles. “Sometimes we boys would tease him about women,” he starts giggling, “but I will never forget what he told us once.” Screwing up his face in memory of the old man, he pauses briefly. “You are still afraid to go pee behind the house when it is dark,” he continues in his grandfather’s raspy voice, “but a girl your age goes to an unknown village many days away without batting an eyelid.” “Marriage?” I jump in. Jozo nods a few times as he laughs. “The courage of women,” I do my best to sum up his story.