I have written enough about Zagreb on previous visits, I am quite sure. It deserves little, if any, more thought.  Perhaps all I still owe it is a label. “The capital of…,” I start ever anew as I walk around the place, but then I always falter. The capital of petty delusions? Nah, too general.The capital of unfulfilled promises?  Nah, too poetic. The capital of misplaced nostalgia? Nah, too pedantic. The capital of provincial pretensions? Nah, too straightforward.  “Wait,” I stop myself in my tracks, “what could possibly be wrong with a straightforward label?” And the capital of provincial pretensions it is. Zagreb in a nutshell, too.