I could never have imagined that I would be carrying one day two framed but unwrapped prints by Ivan Picelj through the busy streets and squares of central Zagreb. But this is what had actually come to pass early this afternoon, when the city was bustling with anxious Christmas shoppers. Quite self-conscious, for Picelj is rather famous in Croatia, I kept glancing left and right as I walked as fast as I could. “Picelj,” pronounced a man of about fifty as he walked past not far from my destination. “Picelj,” I mumbled in turn and smiled sheepishly. But I was most thankful for his startling indiscretion, for he blurted out loud what many people must have thought as soon as they saw me ploughing through the crowd with those two unwrapped prints.