If you are looking for a cup of espresso or a glass of draft beer, you will be surprised to discover that Motovun is closed as of today. There is no watering hole left open in the old town, and there is only one not yet closed on Kanal, on the road to Pazin in the misty foothills. I am not too eager to walk down or up the Motovun hill in the evening, for I can live for a while without draft, but this morning I could not but take a hike in search of good coffee. No matter what some people claim, homemade one is never good enough. Although I was huffing and puffing by the time I returned home, I was in rather good spirits. “Well,” I mumbled to myself as I wiped my brow, “it was high time to lose some weight, too.”