As I was walking around town with a friend, we came to the upper square, which is usually empty. There were about forty people there, though. Standing in small groups, which spread all around the square, there were all talking. The murmur of their voices ricocheting from the church and other surrounding buildings was simply delightful. “Ah,” I beamed at my friend, “they must be Italian!” As he happens to be Croatian, I used the gentlest terms to explain that only Italians know how to use the square. “Croatians just walk through it,” I went on gingerly, “or stick to one of its corners.” As it turned out, Mario Andretti, a famous racing car driver who was born in Motovun, was in town together with a good part of his family. A short while later I saw him walking through the lower square at the head of a babbling throng. “Buongiorno,” I waved at him. “Buongiorno,” he waved back. Anyhow, Croatians came to town from the surrounding villages only quite recently.