We are an entire week into the last month of the year, but there is no sign of Christmas anywhere in Motovun yet. No Santa and his reindeer. No jingle bells. No flashing lights. No fir tress. No carols. No candles. No boxes wrapped in sparkling paper topped with gaudy bows. No nothing. My love for this godforsaken town grows by the day. It grows by leaps and bounds, too.