In Croatia, as well as many other European countries, schools opened this week. As if on cue, the weather changed, too. After several violent storms and much rain, the temperature plummeted by about ten degrees Celsius in a couple of days. All of a sudden, Motovun is almost empty. Groups of Italian and Austrian pensioners bundled up in winter clothing still wander around town, but they are few and far between. Better weather is expected in a day or maybe two, and it may bring more tourists once again, but the hubbub is certainly over. Although I feel kind of relieved, for tourists are quite a nuisance much of the time, I must admit a touch of sorrow, as well. Once the crowds disperse, all that remains is an empty stage set. For Motovun is a dying town, if it is not dead and buried already.