Even when the main square in Zagreb is almost empty, or when people are just crossing it at all angles on their way to some other place, there are at least a thousand of them there. Yes, I made an attempt at a rough count. That is about the number of people who live in the whole municipality of Motovun. The main Motovun square can take around a thousand people when jam-packed. And so I spent a lot of time in the main Zagreb square this sunny morning. Not that I was comparing Zagreb and Motovun! God forbid! Such a blasphemous comparison would never cross my provincial mind.