Their faces contorted by all the muscles deployed to express the deepest of disgusts, most people cannot even listen to me wax poetic about tripe. Tripe?! But few people have had the courage to taste of this ancient dish. The notion of eating an animal’s stomach lining is unappetizing in the age of plenty, of course. Anything wrong with the good old steak? But there are few dishes I prefer to tripe the way my mother used to make it—ala Veneziana. Cut into narrows strips and sautéed in tomato sauce with bacon and garlic, as well as a splash of wine, it is simply delicious. The winter is coming, when animals are traditionally slaughtered in these parts, and the subject has come up with the two chefs we have in town. Both are eager to please me with their own versions of tripe. At the time, a few other enthusiasts will be brought to the table for a reunion of sorts. Benjamin will do it Venetian style, and Ronald will follow his favorite French recipe. My surrogate mothers!