THE ONLY TROUBLE (December 3, 2003)

You can see the Adriatic from Motovun, but you cannot buy fresh sea fish in any of its stores. People here eat fish quite regularly, though. How do they get it? Once or twice a week a van with the morning’s catch appears at the Josef Ressel Square that overlooks the Mirna valley and the sea. Actually, there are two different vans, neither of which has a well-established schedule. They stay at the square for ten or twenty minutes at the time. How do the people know when they are in town? Each van has a loudspeaker on the roof, and each blares a different collection of popular Istrian tunes. In addition, one of the van owners occasionally yells into the loudspeaker: “Fish, fish, fish, fish, fish, fish…” The customers thus know which of the two vans has appeared on the square. The whole thing works pretty well. And so it does in many other towns in the Istrian interior that are on the van routes. Perhaps the only trouble with this arrangement is the horrible music at high volume that must be endured whether or not one ever buys fish.