Thus in huge lettering the plastic bags of Italian toilet paper I buy in Motovun. Ten rolls per bag. In fact, the paper stinks of the cheapest of perfumes. And so do the bathrooms. Why do I buy it if it annoys me so? Because there is rarely any choice in the small store on top of our enchanted hill. Almost everything on offer comes from abroad, because the Croatian economy has been in the doldrums for years, but the choice is quite limited still. If I could, I would buy the plainest white toilet paper in the world. The fragrance of the woods be damned.