Only a few houses are still inhabited in Završje or Piemonte nestled in the hills to the north-west of Motovun. From the road going up the miniature town appears to be in good nick but the first impression soon evaporates. “You’ll see,” Miro Kopčalić told me repeatedly as he drove, “it’s a ghost town.” Walking through the ruins, we came upon a man in his late eighties or early nineties. Dozing in the afternoon sun on a rickety and greasy chair, he opened his eyes only when we addressed him. He spoke in Italian only. “Tutto rotto,” he giggled several times. He was born in the crumbling house behind him, he explained. He seemed content, though. Now that everything was broken, there was nothing to worry about any longer. Soon enough he will be joining the ghosts of this dying town. And gladly, too.