Southwest from Motovun, in the ravine between Brkač and Vižinada, there lies Ivo Vrtarić’s ranch. Signs to the Motovun Ranch can be seen here and there around our town. Among other attractions of this rambling piece of land there are five horses. They are innocent of horseshoes. They have never been indoors. They have never been separated. They are free to roam over huge swaths of land. In short, they are a joy to behold. Miro Kopčalić and I went to visit Ivo yesterday afternoon. We brought six bottles of beer and some munchies. Together with his three German guests, Ivo was finishing a grueling fencing job. He was dripping wet. The beers appeared quite miraculously. Delighted, he invited us to our first riding lesson later in the afternoon. His three guests rode first. Then came our turn, and we acquitted ourselves pretty well. Ivo knew what he was doing, and we all learned just enough to want to learn more. Riding is a delight, but the main reason I will keep riding is to get to know Ivo’s horses. More important, I want them to know me. I want us to love and respect each other as we ride through the ranch, the ravine beneath it, the Mirna valley, the surrounding hills. That prospect will keep me going from one riding lesson to another. And another.