As the bus trundles along, I am glued to one of its windows. I watch Motogreb with all the care I can muster (“Zagovun,” June 21, 2016). In a couple of weeks, I will be watching Zagovun in turn, and I will do my best not to miss any changes along that familiar stretch. Now that I am neither going to Zagreb nor returning to Motovun as often as the last ten years or so, I am fascinated by occasional changes in either direction. In my eyes, it is Gorski Kotar that is changing the fastest. Hilly and woody, as well as sparsely populated, it is attracting ever more tourists. Many years ago, it was the Adriatic coast that attracted the greatest number of tourists, but that is changing fast. Amazingly enough, now Zagreb is the greatest tourist attraction in the whole country. And so are many “wild” regions, such as Gorski Kotar. If you google the region’s name, the browser immediately offers a whole bunch of options for further search: weather, events, excursions, maps, accommodation, real estate, restaurants… Indeed, tourism is changing Croatia. And fast. Who knows, both Zagovun and Motogreb may become tourist attractions soon enough. Although the two stretches rarely veer from the forty-fifth parallel north, one feels that one is crossing a continent, or perhaps an entire planet, at some mindboggling angle.