Zrinjevac is a park that stretches northward from the central train station in Zagreb toward the main square in the city, which is only a block away farther north. Lined with tall trees, it is about a block wide and six blocks long. Two major streets cross it, and a few buildings divide it up, but it is still a coherent urban whole. Built in the late Nineteenth Century under the Austro-Hungarian empire, it is my favorite spot in the Croatian capital. Not a single building surrounding Zrinjevac is modern. Although the neoclassical architecture facing the park is far from magnificent, it beats any other part of Zagreb in its beauty. As I took a walk around the sunlit park a short while ago, I started wondering about my taste. “For crying out loud,” I scolded myself for my conservatism half in jest, “you’ve been trained as an architect!” To no avail, though. Zrinjevac remains my favorite spot in the city of my birth, architecture included. What is more, I am convinced that even the greatest architects of our era could not but spoil it. Architecture, schmarchitecture.